
Here you see I used the low-vac method again used to form the NG-30's, I completely missed the recommendation from Nat in the newsletter to make a radius on the inside corner of the NG-30. Instead I added 1 ply of UND to each side of each NG-30.
Now the Wilhemlson nose lift is installed, I bought the whole works from Jack including the auto retract and tapered timken bearings for the strut. I found these felt seals and will use them to keep dirt out of the bearing and the grease in.

Now the sides and floor are fitted to the tub, shaped to contour and glassed.
Here you see the Rudder pedals I built, they are copied from Velocity pedals. You can also see the hard points and master cylinder anchor system I using. I have fit both master cylinders on the port side under the pilots feet so I have no "wind up" issues. The bearing mounts are Delrin and the whole system is very smooth. I really don't know yet if this is an improvement, but I did not want the rudder tubes on the floor. I mounted the pedals as far forward as I could, this and the seat back installed 1" aft makes for a good fit for me. I would not want any less room than I have now. BTW Dale Rogers supplied the sliders for the master cylinders.
Here is the final iteration of my gear door saga. I first had a different system that used rods, belcranks a guide post and all kinds of stuff in an attempt to get the doors to close around the gear foot that we use with an electric actuator. The problem is the doors closing early or late around the foot will cause them to hang up. My first system worked ok but I didn't have total confidence in it. I put it aside though and marked it done, but I was never happy with it. Later while the tub was upside down for strake construction I saw a much simpler way to do this using the well tested screen door spring. Why I never saw this before is a mystery to me, but all I did was make a fixed plate around the foot and make shorter doors.This works very well now and I have no fears it will hang up. I will also remove the screws for the MKNG 15 and replace them with bolts like Nick Ugolini suggest. Aparently there have been a few failures from corrosion under the head of these screws. Since they are under the plate you wont see them anyway.


Well back onto the nose again. The nose top, Canard cover and Canopy top were contoured using templates lofted from an aluminum strraight edge laid over the major parts. This worked very well at getting the basic contour started. I have installed the PIAA driving lights and installed the pitot tube and static port. I also installed the nose door using "J" hinges, and installed a flange to support the door and door seal. I used a simple minature cam lock to secure the door, it's recessed. I'm trying to figure a way to unlock the canopy thru this door now, I have a couple of ideas ... As of Feb 2008 I'm about done with the nose, I need to paint the inside and then glass on the top yet. April 2008....DONE! Finally! Also have figured out how to latch the canopy thru the door and will post that here when I finish it.