Chapter 13 - Step 2

This step invloves building the two NG-30 pieces.

Raw Mounting Plates June 25, 2002. Here are the mounting plates from Jack Wilhelmson's nose gear mechanism.

Aluminum Spagetti June 25, 2002. I couldn't resist this picture. This is my drill press covered in aluminum spagetti after drilling a 1/4" hole through both mounting plates. Since I'm adding Jack's retract system from the start, I am making a few small changes to the way things are done in the plans. The plans have you make four holes in one NG-30 and three holes in the other NG-30. With Jack's mounting plates, I need three holes in both. The front, bottom most hole in the plans is not needed and the "missing" hole in one of the NG-30's is needed so both are the same. Jack's mounting plates come with only one hole drilled. I drilled the other two on the drill press and will then use these holes to drill the matching holes in the NG-30's.

Doublers June 27, 2002. Here are all the doublers added for NG-6. All the bevels on the birch plywood and the aluminum were made using a rasp file. Then a fine flat file was used to remove the small gouges.

NG-30s June 27, 2002. Here are the two NG-30s after glassing the inside surfaces with 4 plies of BID. They have been sanded together to be the exact same size with all edges even and square. All #12 pilot holes were drilled with both nailed together.

My construction of the NG-30s is going a bit different than the plans. The real difference is the order of construction and the fact that I am using Jack Wilhelmson's nose lift. To begin, I cut the NG-30 foam into a rectangle big enough for both NG-30s. I then layed up the 4 layers of BID on one side. After cure I used the band saw to cut the rectangle in half and trim the edges. I then layed the two halves on top of each other - glass to glass. I then layed the NG-30 template on top of the foam and put four nails into the foam and glass to keep everything together. I then used the band saw and cut out both NG-30s in one shot. While still nailed together I sanded all the edges to the template lines and made sure all was even and square. Lastly I used the drill press to drill the #12 pilot holes for NG-6, the two rudder pedal holes, and three holes for the nose lift mouting plates. Both sides get the same three holes unlike for the plans retract mechanism. I used the three holes in the plates to make the holes in the NG-30s. At this point I separated the NG-30s and used a dremel to cut out the circular depressions for the hardpoints. On the first NG-30 I cut too deep and actually went through 3 of the 4 layers of BID - oops! This will be fixed by adding a few extra layers of BID.

Pads Before Cutout June 28, 2002. As I read the plans about the 15 layer hardpoints, I cringed at the thought of cutting out 15 x 6 1.2" diameter pieces of BID. Then there was the idea of laying all of them up. I had a better idea. Why not do it like the hardpoints in the landing gear bulkheads? I cut 15 pieces of BID about 3" x 5" and layed them all up at once on top of a piece of peel ply and added another piece on top. After cure I simply cut out six 1.2" diameter circles.

Pads in Place June 30, 2002. Here are the circular hard points laying in position on the NG-30. When I do the next layup I will flox these into place and add the BID on top.

NG-30 Recess July 2, 2002. Here are both NG-30s after removing some of the glass and foam and the peel ply from the inside surface where NG-6 will go.

Some Holes July 2, 2002. Here are the rudder pedal holes and the three holes for the mounting plate of the retract.

Note: If you are going to use Dennis Oelmann's rudder pedals, the pedal holes need to 3/4" diameter, not 1/2" like in the plans. It is easier to match drill them now. The real question is do you use the same centers or do you keep the space between the same? I chose the latter for possible structural reasons.

All Holes July 2, 2002. Here is the completed outside surface of NG-30 with the doublers in place and all holes drilled. Both NG-30 were clamped together and all the holes were drilled together in the drill press to ensure they all matched and were square.