Chapter 19 - Step 10

This step has you cut out the aileron.

Cutting out aileron November 1, 2003. Measure this 49 times and really think this through before you even get a saw blade in the same room as the wing. You don't want to screw this up. I clamped some boards along the aileron cut line. The edge of the boards have been cut at a 30° angle leaving a 120° to the wing surface. Using this edge as a guide I was able to use a hacksaw blade to cut through the wing skin. It was much easier than I thought it would be to get a perfectly straight cut. Basically I used the first tooth of the saw blade and slid it back and forth over a 1" or so area near the end of the cut line. It didn't take long to get through the glass. You just need to make a cut long enough to get the end of the blade into. One in you can saw normally, using the angled edge of the boards as a guide. In no time I had a straight cut at the correct angle. I then flipped the wing over and cut the other side. Once both sides were cut I set the wing on the leading edge and carefully cut the aileron ends, again, using a straight edge as a guide.

Inboard wing root November 2, 2003. After cutting off the aileron you need to glass the cutout area of the wing. There is some tight space in there but overall an easy layup. The ends and corners were the hardest to get just right. Plus you need to get glass into the torque tube hole an inch or so.

Aileron leading edge layup November 5, 2003. Balance, balance, balance. Remember those key phrases in the next few parts. Eventually you need to make sure your ailerons will balance or else you will have to build new ones - yuck. I think some people have marginally balanced ailerons because of the placement of the 7/16" dia. steel rod. Triple check the dimensions when attaching this rod. The inboard end of the aileron is cut on a different line than it is measured. If you end up attaching the rod too close to the trailing edge, you won't get it to balance very well.

This picture is showing the aileron in some foam scraps ready to glass the end. The steel rod is microed in place (and cured), the A2 and A5 brackets have been fit and recessed and quadruple checked for alignment (you definitely want these in line for the hinges), and the A10 tube is in place. One minor but annoying issue was that the bend angle in the A2 and A5 brackets was different than the angle of the foam on my ailerons. I needed to bend them a bit more so they fit flush against the foam.

Aileron inboard edge November 5, 2003. A shot of the end of the aileron after glassing.

Trailing edge hinge notches November 5, 2003. The inboard wing trailing edge after being notched 0.2" for the aileron hinges. I don't have a shot of my hinge mounting process but keep this in mind. You want all three in perfect alignment or you will have binding and stiff ailerons. Take your time and be diligent. I came up with a straight edge long enough to span the three hinges. I mounted the inboard and outboard hinge half to the wing and used the straight edge to get them aligned. They were held in place with small clamps. I then used the straight egdge to position the middle hinge half so it was lined up with the other two. Now all three were clamped in perfect position. I drilled them in place through the wing skin and hinge half. I mounted the nutplates and then screwed the hinge halves in place.

Next step was to put the other hinge halves in place and test fit the aileron in place. After checking fit, I removed the aileron, added a couple of small dabs of 5-minute epoxy to the hinges where they touch the aileron, and put the aileron in place. Make sure it is where you want it and clamp it in place. Now the trick is to stick the end of a hacksaw blade into one of the center holes of the hinge. It will just fit. Stick it in just far enough to cause the loose end of the hinge (with the 5-minute epoxy) to come in contact with the aileron. Use one blade per hinge. After the 5-minute epoxy dries, remove the hacksaw blades, and carefully remove the hinge pins. Be careful not to separate the hinge half from the aileron. Now you have the aileron hinge halves in the correct location so you can drill all the rivet holes. After drilling you can pull off the hinge halves, sand off the 5-minute epoxy, and flox them in place and add the rivets. My ailerons have no binding and are very smooth.

Aileron rib glassed November 13, 2003. Glassing the ends of the aileron. After trimming this layup I balanced my ailerons and I am happy to report I am on the good side of center in the balance range. This means I can add lots of filler and paint if I need to. I'll repeat my previous suggestion. Make sure the steel rod is placed in the correct position. Don't get it too close to the trailing edge.